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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.