Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
